Historical Cookbooks

This book is written with the object of laying before the public a
cookery book which will be useful not only to vegetarians, but also to
flesh eaters, who are often at a loss for recipes for non-flesh
dishes. Nowadays most people admit that “too much meat is eaten”; but
when the housewife tries to put before her family or friends a meal in
which meat is to be conspicuous by its absence, she is often at a loss
how to set about it.

Vegetarians also frequently stay with non-vegetarian friends, or lodge
with others who do not understand how to provide for them. For such
this book will especially prove useful, for in it will be found a set
of thirty menus, one for each day in a month, giving suitable recipes
with quantities for one person only. Throughout this book it will be
found that the use of wholemeal has been introduced in the place of
white flour. Those persons who do not care to follow the hygienic
principle in its entirety can easily substitute white flour if
preferred. The recipes have been written bearing in mind the necessity
for a wholesome diet; and they will be found to be less rich than
those in most of the cookery books published. Should any one wish to
make the dishes richer, it can easily be done by an addition of
butter, eggs, or cream.

Let me draw the attention of vegetarians to the use of soaked sago in
many dishes. This is a farinaceous food which should be used much more
largely in vegetarian cookery than it is. Thoroughly soaked sago
should be used in all dishes, savouries or sweets, in which a
substitute for suet is required to lighten the mixture; that is, in
boiled savouries or sweets which are largely made of wholemeal, as,
for instance, in vegetable haggis, roly-poly pudding, and all fruit or
vegetable puddings which are boiled in a paste. When soaked sago is
used (taking a teacupful of dry sago to two breakfastcupfuls of meal)
a light paste will be obtained which would mislead any meat eater into
the belief that suet or, at any rate, baking powder had been used.
Baking powder, tartaric acid, soda and bicarbonate of soda, are all
most injurious to the system, and these chemicals have been left out
of this book entirely. In breads and cakes I have used a small
quantity of yeast for the rising of the dough; those who once have got
accustomed to the use of yeast will not find it any more trouble than
using baking powder. It may here be beneficial to give a few hints as
to the harm done by the use of the most commonly introduced chemicals,
namely, soda, bicarbonate of soda, baking powder, tartaric acid, and
citric acid. Not only do they delay the digestion of the foods in
which they are used, and give rise to various stomach troubles, but
also cause rheumatism and gout, and often are the primary cause of
stone in the kidney and bladder. Another danger lies in the fact that
these chemicals are too dear to be supplied pure to the public, which
always demands cheap goods, and the result is that many of the
chemicals in the market are mixed with other still worse poisons, like
arsenic, for instance. Self-raising flour, which is liked by so many
on account of its convenience, is nothing but ordinary flour mixed
with some sort of baking powder; in the same way egg powders are
simply starch powders, coloured and flavoured, mixed with baking
powder. Tartaric acid and citric acid also belong to the class of
injurious chemicals. They are often used in the making of acid drinks,
when lemons are not handy. They irritate the stomach violently, and
often cause acute dyspepsia. These few remarks will, I hope, convince
the readers that all these chemicals are best avoided in culinary
preparations. Even salt and spices are best used in great moderation;
if our dishes could be prepared without them it would be far the best;
but it takes a long time to wean people entirely from the use of
condiments; the first step towards it is to use them as sparingly as
possible.

I have tried to make this a hygienic cookery book; but there are a
number of dishes introduced which can hardly claim to be hygienic; it
has to be left to the good judgment of the readers to use them on rare
occasions only, and it will be better for the health of each
individual if the plainer dishes only are prepared for the daily
table. I wish here to impress on vegetarians, and those who wish to
give the diet a trial, not to eat much pulse; this is the rock on
which many “would-be vegetarians” come to grief. They take these very
concentrated, nitrogenous foods in rather large quantities, because
they have an idea that only they will support them when the use of
meat is abandoned. They are foods which, to be beneficial to the
system of the consumer, require a great deal of muscular exertion on
his part. The results to persons of sedentary habits of eating pulse
foods often are indigestion, heavy and dull feelings, and general
discomfort. In my own household butter beans, the most concentrated
of all foods, come on the table perhaps once a month, lentils or peas
perhaps once a week. None but those persons who have strong digestive
organs should eat pulse foods at all; and then only when they have
plenty of physical work to do. I have known several people who tried
vegetarianism who have given up the trial in despair, and, when I
inquired closely into the causes, the abuse of pulse food was
generally the chief one.

I will now give a list of the composition of the various foods, which
may be instructive and useful to those to whom the study of dietetics
is new, as well as to vegetarians who may wish to use it for
reference. The list is copied from a little pamphlet by A.W. Duncan,
published by the Vegetarian Society in Manchester.

BUTCHERS’ MEAT AND FISH.

Flesh F.
100 Parts Albuminoids. Gristle, Fat. Extractives, Mineral Water.
Contain Ossein, etc. &c. Matter.

Mutton Chop 7.6 1.2 42.0 4.1 1.0 44.1
Mutt’n C.Bone — 18.7 9.0 — 40.1 32.2
Beef 8.0 7.0 30.0 — 5.0 50.0
Pork 4.5 5.5 50.0 — 1.5 38.5
Fowl 14.0 7.0 — — 2.5 76.5
Mackerel 13.5 12.5 2.2 3.1 68.7
Herring 10.0 7.0 — 2.0 81.0
Bacon 8.1 65.2 3.8 0.6 22.3

Heat-producers
100 Parts Flesh- Starch, Fat. Mineral Indigestible Water.
Contain formers. Sugar, &c. Matter. Fibre.

GRAINS.

Wheat, White
English 11.0 69.0 1.2 1.7 2.6 14.5
Fine Flour,
from white
soft Wheat 10.5 74.3 0.8 0.7 0.7 13.0
Coarse Bran 15.0 44.0 4.0 6.0 17.0 14.0
Household
Flour, J.B. 16.2 69.0 1.1 0.7 0.5 11.8
Oatm’l, fresh
Scotch 16.1 63.0 10.1 2.1 3.7 5.0
Buckwheat,
husk free 15.2 63.6 3.4 2.3 2.1 13.4
Pearl Barley 6.2 76.0 1.3 1.1 0.8 14.6
Barley Meal 11.7 71.0 1.7 0.5 0.1 15.0
Rye flour 10.5 71.0 1.6 1.6 2.3 13.0
Maize 9.0 64.5 5.0 2.0 5.0 14.5
Rice, cleaned 7.5 76.0 0.5 0.5 0.9 14.6

PULSE.

Peas 22.4 51.3 2.5 3.0 6.5 14.3
Lentils 24.0 49.0 2.6 3.0 6.9 14.5
Haricots 23.0 52.3 2.3 2.9 5.5 14.0

NUTS.

Walnuts[F] 12.5 8.9 31.6 1.7 0.8 44.5
Filberts[F] 8.4 11.1 28.5 1.5 2.5 48.0
Cocoa Nut,
solid kernel 5.5 8.1 35.9 1.0 2.9 46.6

ROOTS AND TUBERS.

Potatoes, K. 1.8 20.6 0.2 1.0 0.7 75.7
Turnips,
white 0.5 4.0 0.1 0.8 1.8 92.8
Carrots 0.5 5.0 0.2 1.0 4.3 89.0
Parsnips 1.2 8.7 1.5 1.0 5.6 81.0
Beetroot 0.4 13.4 0.1 3.0 0.9 82.2
Jerusalem
Artichokes 2.0 14.4 0.5 1.1 2.0 80.0
Onions 1.5 4.8 0.2 0.5 2.0 91.0
Radishes, C. 0.5 1.0 — 1.1 2.2 95.0

LEAVES, STEMS, STALKS, AND WHOLE PLANTS.

Cabbage 1.5 5.8 0.5 1.2 2.0 89.0
Sea Kale 2.4 2.8 — 0.6 0.9 93.3
Celery 1.2 3.8 — 0.8 0.9 93.3
Mushrooms 5.0 3.8 0.7 0.5 — 90.0
Lettuce 0.7 1.0 0.2 1.0 0.5 96.0
Watercress 1.7 2.7 0.5 1.3 0.7 93.1
Irish Moss 9.4 55.4 — 14.2 2.2 18.8
Rhubarb[A] 0.9 2.1 — 0.5 1.1 95.1

FRUITS.

Apples 0.4 12.0 1.0[B] 0.4 3.2 83.0
Pears 0.3 11.6 0.1[B] 0.3 3.7 84.0
Gooseberries 0.4 8.9 1.5[C] 0.5 2.7 86.0
Grapes 0.7 16.1 0.8[D] 0.4 2.0 80.0
Strawberr’s K. 1.0 6.8 1.0[B] 0.8 2.3 87.7
Currants, K. 0.5 7.3 2.1[B] 0.7 4.6 84.8
Cherries[E] K. 0.6 11.4 0.9[B] 0.7 6.1 80.3
Plums[E] K. 0.8 11.0 0.9[B] 0.7 5.4 81.2
Peaches[E] 0.5 9.8 0.7[B] 0.6 3.4 85.0
Bananas 4.8 19.7 0.6 0.8 0.2 73.9
Figs, Turkey 6.1 65.9 0.9 2.3 7.3 17.5
Dates[E] 6.6 66.3 0.2 1.6 5.5 20.8
Tomatoes 1.4 8.0 — 0.8 — 89.8
Vegetable
Marrow 0.6 2.6 0.2 0.5 1.3 94.8
Cucumbers 0.2 2.7 — 0.4 0.5 96.2

MILK AND DAIRY PRODUCE.

Cows’ Milk 4.0 5.0 3.7 0.75 — 86.5
Cream 6.0 2.5 36.3 0.2 — 55.0
Skim Milk 4.3 5.5 0.4 0.8 — 89.0
Asses’ Mk. WB 1.9 5.5 1.0 0.4 — 91.2
Goats’ Mk. WB 3.7 4.0 4.2 0.56 — 87.5
Hum’n Mk. WB 3.0 5.9 2.9 0.16 — 88.0
Butter 2.5 0.3 86.2 1.0 — 10.0
Condensed
Milk,[H] H 10.1 54.8 9.4 2.0 — 23.7
Cheese, dble.
Glo’ster, J. 38.0 — 22.0 4.25 — 35.8
Cheese,
American, WB 37.2 — 35.4 4.8 — 22.6
Hens’ Eggs[A,G]14.0 — 11.0 1.3 — 71.7

The letters refer to the authorities for the analyses:–J.B., James
Bell; W.B., A.W. Blyth; K., König, mean of 70 analyses; C., Cameron;
H., Otto Hehner; J., Johnstone.

The other analyses are nearly all taken from Professor Church’s useful
work on “Food” (published for three shillings by Chapman & Hall), to
which the inquirer is referred.

[Footnote A: Contains 0.3% oxalic acid.]

[Footnote B: Malic acid.]

[Footnote C: Citric acid.]

[Footnote D: Tartaric acid.]

[Footnote E: Without stones.]

[Footnote F: Fresh kernels.]

[Footnote G: Extractives, &c., 2.0%.]

[Footnote H: Mean of 13 analyses, 7 brands. Milk sugar, 13.1%; cane
sugar, 41.7%.]

I now leave this book in the hands of the public. I hope that it will
be found useful by many and a help to those who wish to live in a way
which is conducive to health and at the same time innocent of
slaughter and cruelty. The health of the nation to a great extent is
in the hands of our cooks and housewives. If they learn to prepare
wholesome and pure food, those who are dependent on them will benefit
by it. Healthful cookery must result in health to the household and,
therefore, to the nation. Avoid disease-communicating foods, use those
only which are conducive to health, and you will be rewarded by an
increase of health and consequently of happiness.